Sodded Lawn Care Instructions
WATERING
During the first week to ten days the sod should be kept moist at all times. In the absence of adequate rainfall, watering should be performed daily or as often as necessary during the first week and in sufficient quantities to maintain moist soil to a depth of at least 4 inches. It takes a lot of water to penetrate the sod and the soil below it. Let the sprinklers run at least an hour in a spot
except on steep slopes. Generally each spot will need a thorough soaking every other day unless it is very hot then every day.
Watering should be done either in the early morning or in the mid to late afternoon to reduce evaporation.
In the second and subsequent weeks, water the sod as required to maintain adequate moisture in the upper 4 inches of soil,
necessary for the promotion of deep root growth. This will need to be done for a minimum of 3-4 weeks depending on weather
conditions.
The edges of the lawn and the parts along the walks and the house are most likely to dry first, so make sure to water heavily and frequently in these areas. Steeply sloped lawn areas may slip if watered too heavily. Water these spots more frequently, but not as heavily. Your grass will always let you know if it is not getting enough water. If the sod begins to shrink and the seams open, it is drying out. If the grass looks gray and doesn’t spring back when you walk on it, it is wilted and needs water.
PROTECTION
After you soak the lawn the first time it will be very soft. Do not walk on it. You will poke big holes in the lawn. Set your sprinklers so you can pull them to the next spot with the hose without walking on the grass. Avoid using the lawn area for at least 2 weeks or until it is firm enough to prevent foot steps
MOWING
The first mowing should not be attempted until the sod is firmly rooted and securely in place. Use extra care with the first mowing and make certain that cutting blades are maintained in sharp condition. Additionally, a light-weight mower is highly recommended while the lawn is establishing it’s root system. No more than 30 percent of the grass leaf should be removed by
the initial or subsequent mowings. Initially this may require every other day cuttings, reducing each cut in ½” increments until the
desired maintained height of 2 ½” – 3” is achieved. Cutting the grass shorter than 2 ½” will sacrifice root penetration down into
the soil. The root system accommodates the height of the leaf blade so that the higher the height the deeper the root, resulting
in a thicker, healthier lawn. Longer cutting height also gives the added advantages of conserving soil moisture due to increased
shading and less area for weeds to penetrate
FERTILIZATION/WEED CONTROL
Once the sod is fully established, a yearly fertilizer/weed control maintenance program should be set up to maintain a healthy,
vital turf grass stand. We recommend a five-step program with applications in early spring, late spring, summer, early fall and late fall. For best results, it is important to use products specifically designed for their respective times of year, applied at the recommended rates.
CORE AERATION
Core aeration is recommended for sodded lawns to break up the thatch layer, enhance water penetration into the soil, reduce soil compaction, and improve air exchange into the soil, however it is important to not aerate until the root system is established in the soil. 6-12 months is a good time to wait before aerating your lawn. Optimum aeration times are during spring (March through
May) and fall (August through November)